John Galliano, born in Gibraltar in 1960, is a British fashion designer known for his avant-garde and historically influenced designs. His career has been marked by immense creative success and personal controversy, making him one of fashion's most complex figures. His passion for design developed early, nurtured by his mother’s insistence on always dressing well. This upbringing sparked his interest in clothing and led him to study textile design at East London College. Later, he attended the prestigious St. Martin's School of Art, where his fascination with historical costumes blossomed—a fascination that would become a defining element of his aesthetic.
Early success: "Les Incroyables" and British fashion
Galliano’s 1984 graduate collection, Les Incroyables, was inspired by the French Revolution. Its mix of historical reference and modernity garnered immediate attention and was bought in its entirety by the high-end boutique Browns. This debut success cemented his reputation as a visionary, encouraging him to establish his own label in London. Galliano quickly became known for his avant-garde designs that drew heavily on historical themes, captivating the British fashion elite. His unique approach earned him the prestigious British Fashion Designer of the Year award in 1987, 1994, 1995, and 1997.
Creative breakthrough in Paris
Despite his early accolades, Galliano's brand struggled financially, as his high-concept designs were not always commercially viable. A crucial turning point came in 1994, when his label was rescued by investors, aided by influential figures like Vogue’s Anna Wintour and fashion editor André Leon Talley. This backing allowed him to relocate to Paris, a city where his creative development would reach new heights.
In Paris, Galliano’s designs became more refined, blending his theatrical flair with the elegance expected in haute couture. His appointment as creative director of Givenchy in 1995 marked his first major role at a fashion house. His debut couture collection showcased his talent for dramatic silhouettes and meticulous tailoring, earning him critical acclaim.
John Galliano for Dior
The Dior Era: Fashion theater and global influence
Galliano’s career skyrocketed in 1996 when he was appointed creative director at Dior, replacing Gianfranco Ferré. His first collection for Dior in 1997 was a spectacular affair, marking the house’s 50th anniversary with a star-studded runway that included the iconic Princess Diana. Galliano transformed Dior’s fashion shows into theatrical spectacles, collaborating with industry legends like makeup artist Pat McGrath, hairstylist Guido Palau, and milliner Stephen Jones. His collections, always infused with historical references, became increasingly opulent and luxurious, defining a new era for Dior.
During his time at Dior, Galliano revitalized the brand, tripling its turnover and attracting a younger clientele while maintaining the glamour and sophistication associated with the house. His innovative designs and lavish runway productions became synonymous with Dior’s image of modern luxury. In recognition of his contributions, Galliano was awarded the French Legion of Honour in 2009, cementing his legacy in fashion history.
Downfall and redemption
However, the immense pressure of designing six collections a year for both Dior and his eponymous label took a toll on Galliano. His growing addiction to alcohol and prescription medication led to erratic behavior. In 2011, a video surfaced of Galliano making anti-Semitic remarks, which resulted in his immediate dismissal from Dior and his own label. The scandal rocked the fashion world, forcing Galliano to retreat from public life and seek treatment for his addictions.
After a period of rehabilitation and reflection, Galliano made a tentative return to the fashion world in 2013, collaborating briefly with Oscar de la Renta. His official comeback came in 2014 when he was appointed creative director of Maison Margiela. At Margiela, Galliano embraced a new design philosophy, exploring deconstruction, conceptual design, and innovative techniques. His work at Margiela has not only reinvigorated the brand but also doubled its revenues, proving that his creative genius remains intact.
Maison Margiela by Jogn Galliano, 2024
John Galliano's extraordinary career
John Galliano’s career is a testament to the power of creative vision and the complexities of personal struggle. His rise to fame was meteoric, and his fall from grace, equally dramatic. Yet, his ability to reinvent himself at Margiela demonstrates the resilience of his talent. Today, Galliano continues to push the boundaries of fashion while grappling with the challenges of his past. His influence on the fashion industry is undeniable, and his journey remains a compelling narrative of triumph, scandal, and redemption.
Pieces by John Galliano
Available at To Recollect:
