Olivier Theyskens (1977), a Belgian fashion designer, is renowned for his romantic, feminine, and meticulously crafted designs. His fascination with fashion began at a young age in Brussels, inspired by his grandmother’s collection of fabrics, lace, and ribbons. These early influences laid the foundation for a career defined by elegance, history, and a meticulous attention to detail, which earned his work the label of “demi-couture” from the international fashion press.
Early beginnings (1997-2002): Dark Romanticism and demi-couture
Theyskens's early work was marked by a deconstruction of 18th-century style, blending traditional French fabrics with a modern, sensual aesthetic. His use of vintage lace fragments, often collected by his grandmother, created an effect that drew attention to the body in a way that was both delicate and striking. This period of his career was defined by dark romanticism, where melancholic beauty and intense craftsmanship came together in his collections.
Theyskens’s early designs, though not initially available commercially, caught the attention of fashion insiders, leading to a breakthrough when Madonna wore one of his creations at the 1998 Academy Awards. His unique vision and couture-like attention to handwork, including the use of corsets and intricate closures, established him as a creative force. His designs during this time were dubbed “demi-couture” for their labor-intensive details and craftsmanship.
Rochas (2002-2010): Crafting a new silhouette
In 2002, Theyskens took the helm at Rochas, where he created an entirely new silhouette for the historic house. His designs were distinctly French-influenced, elegant, and light, paying homage to the elegance of the past while pushing fashion forward. He maintained his signature use of couture elements like hook-and-eye closures, corsetry, and the use of luxurious materials like silk, crepe, and lace.
At Rochas, Theyskens's attention to the way fabrics moved and reflected light became central to his design philosophy. His romantic, ethereal creations during this time revived the brand, showcasing his mastery of cut and his deep understanding of how fabric interacts with the body. His collections blended nostalgia with modern sophistication, solidifying his reputation as a master of construction.
Olivier Theyskens for Nina Ricci 2009
Nina Ricci (2006-2010): Youthful elegance and dynamic silhouettes
At Nina Ricci, Theyskens's focus shifted to a younger, more casual level of dressing, but he remained committed to luxury and craftsmanship. His Spring/Summer 2009 collection exemplified this new direction with dresses that were short in the front, cascading into long trains in the back. These designs created a dynamic movement, inspired by the world of dance, while simultaneously referencing historical silhouettes from the 1890s with high-necked bodices and leg-of-mutton sleeves.
Theyskens’s work at Nina Ricci was a balance between youthful energy and the timeless elegance he was known for. He maintained his dedication to intricate details and the use of fine fabrics, ensuring his designs continued to captivate audiences with their combination of history and modernity.
Theory (2010-2014): Contemporary experimentation
In 2010, Theyskens joined Theory, where he was tasked with designing more contemporary, accessible collections. Despite this shift, Theyskens continued to infuse his work with his signature romanticism and attention to construction. He experimented with new silhouettes and fabrics, adapting his couture techniques to a more ready-to-wear aesthetic without losing the intricacy that defined his earlier collections.
His time at Theory allowed Theyskens to explore the intersection between luxury and everyday wear, proving his versatility as a designer and his ability to translate high fashion into the contemporary market.
Theyskens Theory
Olivier Theyskens (2016-Present): A personal vision
With the relaunch of his eponymous label in 2016, Theyskens returned to his roots, allowing him to fully express his own unique vision without constraints. His independent collections have continued to explore themes of romance, femininity, and historical inspiration. Each piece reflects his deep respect for craftsmanship and his ongoing exploration of the intersection between past and present.
This period marks a return to Theyskens’s most personal work, with designs that feel intimate and reflective of his career-long devotion to elegance, construction, and the sensuality of fabric.
Azzaro (2020-Present): A new era of elegance
In 2020, Theyskens was appointed as the artistic director of Azzaro, a historic couture house known for its timeless glamour. At Azzaro, he has masterfully blended classic elegance with modern sensuality, revitalizing the brand with his signature style. His work here continues to showcase his talent for creating beautifully constructed garments that honor the past while embracing the future.
